SLIM19: WalkThrough

SHOPPING LIST

• HASHBOARD
• CONTROL BOARD AMLOGIC, A113D22
• LOKI BOARD (LOKI LITE) 
• APW3++ PSU (FROM OLD S9)
• ANTMINER CHASSIS (S19)
• PSU CABLES FROM APW3++  ONE 6 PIN PCIe CONNECTOR (3 YELLOW 3 BLACK) / (2) SC6-6 LUG FOR PCIe CABLE and heat shrink. 
  
• 16 INCHES OF 4 AWG CABLE (RED)/ 16 INCHES OF 4 AWG CABLE (BLACK)(4) 4AWG #10 BATTERY LUGS and Heat shrink. 
• 18 PIN BITMAIN ANTMINER SIGNAL CABLE (HASBOARD CABLE)
• M3 Screws:  FAN MOUNT (4) M3x30mm, INSERT (4) M3x20mm, HAT LOCK (2) M3x6mm, CONTROL BOARD (1) M3x6mm.
• (2) FANS: STOCK, GELIED GALE FORCE, OR NOCTUA. (ENSURE YOU PRINT THE RIGHT Fan housing to correspond to the fans you get)
  
• NEMA 5-15P to C13 AC Power Cord, 15A 125V, 14AWG 
• Ethernet Cable

TOOLS

• Crimping tool: Make sure it is rated for 4AWG
• Wire Shear Cutter: 4AWG
• Cable Stripper 
• Hot Air Rework Station *Optional (you can also use a lighter).
• Soldering station hand (Holder) *Optional
  
• Solder Flux
• Soldering Iron
• Screwdriver, HEX KEYS (2.0/2.5 for m3), 3D printing scraper, shears, knife etc.

  
  

THE PRINT

• FILES: You will find the print files in SatStackingPleb’s GitHub for the SLIM19.  https://github.com/SatStackingPleb/Slim19 
• Filament: PETG Carbon Fiber (CF) is recommended. PETG might work. PLA will melt into a puddle on the first day you turn your SLIM19 on. It will likely cause a house fire. 
• Print Size: SatStackingPleb split the insert into 2 pieces, so you no longer need a 300mm bed to complete this print. In previous iterations the insert was one piece and it was proving difficult for even the larger beds. The File for Printing the Insert is: Slim19-insert-SPLIT-body.STL
• Fan Type: Make sure that you print the correct Fan mount for the fans you will be using. The Gelied fans take Slim19-intake-20MM-fans, and the Noctua fans use Slim19-intake-Nocuta
• Printer Settings: Standard for PETG CF, NOZZLE TEMP 260, BED TEMP 80. I go 30% for Infill.

PREPARING THE CABLE KIT:

4AWG Cables

• I usually go with 16+ inches of RED 4AWG, and 16+ inches of Black 4AWG. For a total of 32 inches of 4AWG. The color does not matter, but I am not willing to take any chances of accidentally frying a hashboard because I forget which is hot.
• Cut the 4AWG with wire shear cutters and strip off the end with a cable stripper.
• Next I will use the Battery Cable Lug Crimping tool to secure the 4AWG-¼ Battery Terminal Connectors.
• Put on the heat shrink tubing
• I use a Hot Air Rework  Station to secure the shrink tubing around the base of the lug. You can also use a lighter. 

6 PIN PCIe CONNECTOR

This is the connector that goes from the Control Board to the PSU in our build. It has 3 Yellow and 3 Black wires on each lead and a white plastic 6 pin square at the other end.

• Remove any shrink tubing on the wire bundle if needed, you may be able to slide it down and utilize it to keep your wiring neat.
• Cut off the lug or connector to free the individual wires.  
• Isolate the best looking connector available. You might want to give it a quick wipe-down with an alcohol pad.
• strip about a half inch of the end of each wire. 
• Twist the 3 Yellow and 3 Black together
• Put on the lug and crimp it. *They make smaller crimpers, but I just use rusty pliers. Use the Heat Shrink tubing to secure your wires

PREPARING THE CHASSIS

S19 BREAKDOWN

Compass Mining did a great breakdown/ setup video where they walk you through how to deconstruct an S19 to its base parts. The production value is pretty stellar, so instead of fumbling through a video myself I will point you to that if you have an S19 that you want to utilize for a LOKI build. 

• Unscrew the housing on the PSU, don’t lose the screws. They are tiny, so you may want to put them in the lid of the Slim19 print for safekeeping. 

• Lift the lid and remove the insulating plastic. Do not throw this away, it serves a purpose and must be returned when the housing is closed. 

• This is when I take off the bundles of PCIe cords because they get in the way. Save these, as well as the screws that hold down the connector lugs, you will use those for your new Cable Kit. **PRO TIP: IF you are afraid that you will forget the orientation of the Hot/Ground wires just remember this video.

• There is an epoxy or coating that is covering a flathead screw on the top left of the potentiometer.  Scrape it off. It is like a hard candy, but you want to get it out of the groove of the screw as well. 
• Make sure you are in a somewhat quiet place because you are going to need to hear a very faint sound. 
• Turn the screw counter clockwise. 
• A lot. 
• You will have to turn it 20-30 full revolutions before you hear the faintest clicking sound. 
• Brush out the residue that you scraped off of the potentiometer, return the insulation to the orientation in which you found it, and button back up with your screws before checking your work. 
• That is it, check with a multi-meter, if for some reason you messed it up. Just try again.